Return to Home Page
Table Hockey Rocks in Southern California
 
Main Menu
Home
Table Hockey Tournaments
League Standings
Contact
Links
Frequently Asked Questions

Multimedia Menu
Photos
Videos
Articles
Blog
Downloads
Coming Soon

Community Menu
Forums
Live Chat
Find Players
Tributes

Official Forums Menu
Official ACTHF Forum
Official CTHA Forum
Official USTHA Forum

Donations Menu
Sponsors
Donate Here
Table Hockey Heaven Forum Index Table Hockey Heaven
Table Hockey Fourms
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

simple fixes to Stiga's main problems

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Table Hockey Heaven Forum Index -> Modifications, Repairs, Painting & Custom Games
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
FXJ
Rookie
Rookie


Joined: 31 Aug 2007
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:09 am    Post subject: simple fixes to Stiga's main problems Reply with quote

Hi guys,

I made a few very simple improvements to my Stiga table and it worked out so well that I'd like to share them with you guys to give you ideas.

Stiga has a bunch of problems that can get very annoying:

1) players lift of their posts, particularly the international ones
2) the hole for the rods (particularly for the center) keep enlarging
3) ice surface is often uneven
4) table is light and keeps lifting or sliding
5) too many in-and-outs
6) rods bend easily

For problem 5, I'm still in the process of implementing a simple version of Joel's (aka oilersfan) optical detector for that. I'll post when I get some positive results.

For problem 6, I leared on this forum that one guy sells carbon-hardened steel rods, I haven't tried them yet but I might eventually.

For problem 1, I put Aleene's tack it over and over glue on the player's post, as recommended by many guys on this site, and it works great! I bought it in a Michael's store.

For problem 2, I ordered some cheap 5/16" nylon spacers for electronic circuit boards with a hole for a #10 screw from McMaster-Carr (they are also sold by Grainger, and probably many other places) and I epoxied 1/4" lengths to my table. It slides perfectly, it doesn't come unglued, and unlike steel washers, you can't cut your fingers on them. I put a picture of those nylon pieces (those I bought are 5/8" long, I cut them in half with my dremel) along with a picture of what it looks like on my table here:

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/1.jpg
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/2.jpg

To deal with problems 3 and 4, I made a base with 2x4's (cut to 21") and MDF sheets (cut 21" x 19 5/8") that's the same height as the original legs, but it's much heavier and the hockey table sits flat on it. I made the base short enough so I can still use puck catchers (aka suplaks) under my nets. I put rubber legs underneath so it won't slide. The game is held to the base using clips, so that we can easily remove it and turn it over for repairing rods or other things like that. I put a handle on the base so it's easy to carry. Finally, when you place the hockey table on a flat surface, you often have a slight unevenness around the left wing player. To fix that I put a few pieces of cereal box cardboard under the ice surface only in a few areas and now the entire surface is flat. I put ictures of the base, the clips, and the game placed on its base here:

http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/3.jpg
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/4.jpg
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/6.jpg
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/5.jpg

I used that base for many intense evenings of fierce playing and it's performed above my initial expectations.

If any of these modifications inspire you guys, go ahead and copy them, you won't regret it!
[/img]
_________________
Cheers,

Francois-Xavier Jette

check out the LHSM: www.everyoneweb.com/lhsm
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Rodwarn
Veteran
Veteran


Joined: 09 Aug 2007
Posts: 164

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Francois,

A grizzled veteran tells me you were considering playing in Hartford.....is this a possibility? If so, perhaps you can bring your modified game and show us how it works.

Everyone wants a "better mouse trap" Ideas for improving the way games perform are always encouraged. Thank you for your input.

I "discovered" Alene's "tack it over and over again" about 4 years ago and we used it for the 1st time for the Boston Challange in 2005. A little goes a long way. I wish I owned the patent! WARNING Don't buy "tacky glue" it MUST be "Tack it over and over"

In 2004 we glued inserts (inspired by the Benej game) into all of the nets for the Boston Challange and Suplaks were introduced the same year. Turns out thin acetate molded to fit the countour of the Stiga nets and held in place with the same product is the best "in and out" prevention for most nets. Works great for Coleco also!

Suction cups, with "tack it over" applied will keep a game from going anywhere. It's a bugger to get off of Mahogany....but great on most surfaces.

Funny, those nylon washers are exactly what I have used on my Stiga games since 2000. They are worlds smoother than metal. I glue them in place with GORILLA GLUE.

Its a shame Stiga doesnt make nylon washers standard on their games. They used to. There is a lot of planned obsolecence on Stiga games and the game is really meant to be worn out. By the time you replace rods (gears get mushy also)
drill and glue washers etc. you spend what it costs for a new game.

Bravo for American(and Canaidian) ingenuity! Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sklump
2nd Team All Star
2nd Team All Star


Joined: 26 Jan 2007
Posts: 740
Location: Ottawa

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

François, bravo on the nylon washers. That's the best solution I've seen.

I've used a couple of games with the carbon rods: easily worth the effort and price.

Cheers,
Stephen
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
oilersfan99
2nd Team All Star
2nd Team All Star


Joined: 30 Oct 2007
Posts: 302
Location: Kamloops BC

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Francois,

I absolutely love those Nylon washers. Very smooth.
_________________
Cheers,

Joel.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
sludgeface
Minor Leaguer
Minor Leaguer


Joined: 03 Feb 2009
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:48 pm    Post subject: Re: simple fixes to Stiga's main problems Reply with quote

FXJ wrote:

For problem 2, I ordered some cheap 5/16" nylon spacers for electronic circuit boards with a hole for a #10 screw from McMaster-Carr (they are also sold by Grainger, and probably many other places) and I epoxied 1/4" lengths to my table. It slides perfectly, it doesn't come unglued, and unlike steel washers, you can't cut your fingers on them. I put a picture of those nylon pieces (those I bought are 5/8" long, I cut them in half with my dremel) along with a picture of what it looks like on my table here:


Hey, thanks for some really good ideas.

Any chance you could post the link to the exact nylon spacers you bought, on the McMaster-Carr website? I got to here and then got lost:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon/=of34h

Thanks!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Rodwarn
Veteran
Veteran


Joined: 09 Aug 2007
Posts: 164

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought the nylon spacers at HOME DEPOT...they ain't "hen's teeth" Rolling On Floor Laughing
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
FXJ
Rookie
Rookie


Joined: 31 Aug 2007
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Sludgeface,

the link to the nylon spacers on Mcmaster-Carr is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#spacers-and-standoffs/=opljp

Rodwarniors says he found them at Home Depot. I checked many hardware stores before (not home depot though) and never found them so I had to resort to order from Mcmaster-Carr. You might first want to try Home Depot to avoid the shipping charge of Mcmaster-Carr.

One thing I hadn't mentioned in my previous post was cost. The nylon spacers cost me under $10 for 100 pieces. The wood and clips for my base cost under $40. The base will obviously not wear out and I have plenty of nylon spacers to last quite some time. So even though eventually your Stiga table will still have to be replaced as gears or other parts wear out, these simple and cheap modifications improve your playing experience (lifting players, uneven ice sheet and slack hole around the center rod are really annoying but they're easy to fix) on top of at least doubling the lifespan of your table.

Cheers,
_________________
Cheers,

Francois-Xavier Jette

check out the LHSM: www.everyoneweb.com/lhsm
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
FXJ
Rookie
Rookie


Joined: 31 Aug 2007
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looks like my Mcmaster-Carr link doesn't take you to the right page. Just type in the part number: 94639A356 in the search engine to get the part I used.
_________________
Cheers,

Francois-Xavier Jette

check out the LHSM: www.everyoneweb.com/lhsm
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
sludgeface
Minor Leaguer
Minor Leaguer


Joined: 03 Feb 2009
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2009 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FXJ wrote:
looks like my Mcmaster-Carr link doesn't take you to the right page. Just type in the part number: 94639A356 in the search engine to get the part I used.


Awesome thanks a lot!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ShootsNScores
Minor Leaguer
Minor Leaguer


Joined: 03 Mar 2009
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:38 am    Post subject: Re: simple fixes to Stiga's main problems Reply with quote

FXJ wrote:
For problem 2, I ordered some cheap 5/16" nylon spacers for electronic circuit boards with a hole for a #10 screw from McMaster-Carr (they are also sold by Grainger, and probably many other places) and I epoxied 1/4" lengths to my table. It slides perfectly, it doesn't come unglued, and unlike steel washers, you can't cut your fingers on them. I put a picture of those nylon pieces (those I bought are 5/8" long, I cut them in half with my dremel) along with a picture of what it looks like on my table here:
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/1.jpg
http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/2.jpg
[/img]

Hi FXJ,

Regarding tip #2, I think that forum members ought to be aware that 5/16 inch diameter nylon spacers will not fit into the control rod holes of the Stiga Stanley Cup game - unless the holes are VERY worn out. When I received my 5/16 nylon spacers from McMaster-Carr, they were way too big to fit into the control rod holes of my game. By my measurement, the control rod holes in the Stiga game are 3/16 inch in diameter.

When I took a closer look at the photo that you posted (http://i583.photobucket.com/albums/ss272/fjette/1.jpg), I noticed that the hole that has the nylon spacer inserted (hole on the left) seems much bigger than the one without the spacer (hole on the right). I'm guessing that you might have drilled out the hole on the left in order to allow the nylon spacer to fit.

I'm hesitant to drill out the plastic around the control rod holes since it might make the plastic more prone to cracking. I might try a smaller diameter spacer (possibly the 3/16 O.D. spacer from McMaster-Carr, part number 94639A708).

So for anyone who wants to try this fix, they really should measure the diameter of the control rod holes to see what size spacers they need.

Thanks for the tips; I was interested to see your fixes to the problems in the Stiga game.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
FXJ
Rookie
Rookie


Joined: 31 Aug 2007
Posts: 31

PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On Stiga the rods are 4mm in diameter (since the game is made in Europe it's all in metric dimensions) and the holes for the rods are 5mm, which is a little over 3/16". The clearance between the rod and the hole is therefore only 1mm (about 0.040"). If you try to insert a sleeve in that small 5mm hole, you won't have enough clearance left to pass the rod (i.e. you'll have less than 0.040", which isn't enough). You really need this 1mm clearance especially for the center rod since it moves a little bit diagonally.

So if you want to insert anything you must be sure it has a hole at least 3/16" in diameter (preferably a little larger, like the holes for size #10 screws in my nylon spacers). Ideally the hole should be about 0.1960"; a 3/16" hole is only 0.1875" which is still about 0.009" short of the ideal dimension.

To fit my 5/16" nylon spacers I had to drill a 5/16" hole in the game indeed. If you try to drill anything larger than 5/16" you won't have a good housing to glue the nylon to, so 5/16" is pretty much the largest you can drill without having serious problems. I've had my nylon spacers in there for many rough games and I've seen no damage to the plastic of the Stiga table, so I feel that 5/16" is a good OD for the nylon spacer.

If you try to put a nylon spacer that has a hole for a #10 screw with an OD less than 5/16", you end up using a nylon piece that has a very thin wall, this piece might wear out fast, it might break, and/or it might be soft and come unglued as it distorts during play. The next size down from 5/16" is usually 1/4"; this might be suitable. If anyone tries that approach and finds that it works out, let us know!
_________________
Cheers,

Francois-Xavier Jette

check out the LHSM: www.everyoneweb.com/lhsm
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Table Hockey Heaven Forum Index -> Modifications, Repairs, Painting & Custom Games All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
Table Hockey Heaven - Copyright 2007