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Painting question

 
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JeremyB
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Joined: 13 Dec 2015
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2015 2:54 am    Post subject: Painting question Reply with quote

Hi guys

I saw the thread on painting about using acrylic or enamel paints but have a couple more

I'm going to use enamel paints, what brand would you guys recommend? I don't know if anybody here might have a color chart or list for the paints they use on each team.

Also what brand of clear coat would you recommend

Any tips would b great

Thanks

Jeremy
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ThrashersFan
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Jeremy -

For my customs I exclusively use Testor's Model Masters enamel paints. There are a bunch of different paint companies that must be good quality or they wouldn't still around but I've used Testor's since I was a kid so I just stuck with that. They have color charts but I personally think some of their colors are not accurately represented: http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/american-fs-enamel/bottles. I've used the standard set as well as the automotive and military - just depending on what colors I'm looking for and which line has a shade closest to what I need. You can mix paints to get a specific shade but it gets expensive fast if you screw up and ruin a bottle.

When I start repainting a set the first thing I do is to lightly sand the players. Then I use a white wash mixture of Testors Model Master Insignia White and Testors paint thinner. I use the white wash because I don't want a heavy coat that will obscure details in the mold but that light coat of white wash is what the final paint coat really adheres to.

I use gloss paints for all my work because I feel the paint goes on a little more evenly and doesn't darken with each coat like the flat paints will do. This becomes critical with the fine detail painting like stripes because I may have to touch up the edges in 4 or 5 passes.

For decals I use the Testor's decal sheets. I've heard good things about some of the other decal sheet companies but Testor's are widely available at several stores in my area. Once the sheet is printed I let it dry for several days - I'm not a very patient person but this is a key step otherwise when you apply the bonding spray the ink may blur along the edges of the decals. The bonding spray is a required step - this is what adheres the ink to the decal sheet but make sure to use several light coats and let it dry fully in between coats. The Testors decals are a bit finicky so I always print 5 or 6 of each number, name, etc that I am going to need.

There are two Testor's products that I do not use:

Testors enamel clear coat - I have not had good luck with that product on two fronts - it can cause smearing on the decals and paint and it yellows over time on white paint. I use Delta Ceramcoat. It is an acrylic clear coat but it works fine over the enamel base - it's very durable and doesn't have the same issues with yellowing.

Testor's decal set - if you have to use their decal set because you can't find anything else I would cut it by half and mix with water. It can cause decals to bubble and the decals tend to tear if you have to tweak their positioning much at all. I'll have to check the name of what I use when I get home from work - it was recommended by a guy at the hobby shop and I've been very happy with it.

Good luck!
Jeff
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JeremyB
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the in depth reply Jeff I appreciate it. Great info for somebody just starting out painting figures.
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JeremyB
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 21, 2015 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also Jeff ,

You were saying you use the testors decal sheets but not the set? Isn't the set just the sheets with the bonding spray?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry - I can see where that would be confusing. Decal set (or setter) is a softening solution that you apply with a brush once the decal is placed on the player to make the decals pliable so they conform to the curves and folds of the player mold.

Decal set is critical for getting decals to lay flat on any curved surface on the players. Without it the decals will either lift up at the edges, bubble in the middle or simply tear along the steepest curve. Decal set doesn't matter much on jersey numbers, names, logos because the surface is fairly flat - water will get you by. But for things like the Sabres shoulder logos below you will likely get edge lifting without decal set. Once you are used to using a setting solution it can open up options like full goalie mask decals too.





As I mentioned previously the Testor's Decal set created a lot of issues for me. I switched over to Micro Sol and have been very happy with it - http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2

Good luck!
Jeff
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JeremyB
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jeff,

I also decal on my model railroad and use micro sol and micro set. So that could be used instead of the testors brand is good to know. Also do you get clear decal sheets or white ones?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 22, 2015 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Primarily I use the clear decals. I have used white in the past but they are a bit thicker so you end up having to feather the edges in with your paint brush. You have to use the clear decal sheets on any rounded surface like the goalie masks - the thicker white decal sheets won't confirm to shapes like the thinner clear decal sheets.

Just remember to give a solid under coat of white to any area you are going to apply a decal. Unless you have access to one of those high dollar printers that actually print white. Otherwise the printer assumes the medium is a white background and adjusts the ink shade accordingly. Without the white background under the decal all the colors will be a shade darker than you intend for them to be.
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JeremyB
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again for the tips Jeff

Also if painting the figures should I wash them in warm soapy water to get off any mood release before priming them. I picked up some of the white paint yourself models that Stiga offers.

Thanks again and merry Christmas

Jeremy
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sklump
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Joined: 26 Jan 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember to clear-coat after the paint is dry. Otherwise they will chip as soon as they get near a puck. I use Krylon aerosol pottery varnish, 3 coats.

Disclaimer: mine are nowhere near as good as any of those pictured above, so maybe I don't know what I'm talking about Smile
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