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Bending and attaching glass w/a heat gun

 
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johnbenej
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:15 am    Post subject: Bending and attaching glass w/a heat gun Reply with quote

Fellow gods of the rods:
I am in the process of refurbishing a trio of games--two 5340s and a 5330--and need some assistance from all you smart folks out there.

I have duraplex glass, lexan glass and a heat gun. Yes, there is the boiling--water method, but I paid all this money for the heat gun, so I might as well learn how to use it . . . .

Now, how exactly do you bend the glass using the heat gun? Do you:
A--attach the glass to the stand on one side, then heat the glass around the bends and up against the endboards or
B--Center the glass on a rod or stick, heat the middle so that you have your bend, then push the glass up against the game and attach it that way . .

I want the glass to be SNUG up against the enboards with no space between the endboards and the glass--not a sliver. Also, I'd like to avoid blotching or melting the glass in certain spots.

Does anyone have any advice at all? Please help me out. Thanks for your time and all the best,
JP
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Dwayne is a expert with a heat gun no? Dwayne Stegner makes that ultra tight bend on the MUNRO corners. His work is best ive seen with a heat gun. We boil water and cook the glass. You could could take the heat gun back for your money and just boil water. If its heat gun work you want just ask Dwayne.

He Knows
Jim Rzonca
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can smell it now........ Cookin Glass.






Boiled water leaves no distorted heat gun patches. Thats 1/8 inch acrylic plexi boiled in water. It bends like puddy in your hands. Nice Clear bends.

Gary Leverence / Chicago Table Hockey League turned me on to this method.



The difference is CLEAR
Jim Rzonca
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Steve Dowell
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 3:41 am    Post subject: bending glass Reply with quote

John. Do you see the template Jim has made in the upper left of the latest image? It ALWAYS helps to have one of those on hand! Clapping
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Flyers10
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a dinner plate that had the same radius as the bend I wanted for mine. I just held the p-glass over the stove burner (one of those with the ceramic top) with some oven mitts, when the glass wa spliable enough I started the bending. Have the game close by for reference so you can make fine adjustments. Make sure you bend the glass a little tighter than you want because it will flex back as it cools. I ran mine under warm water to speed the cooling process as the glass retains the heat and some pliability for longer than you think.
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tip ~ Ive used a a 1 gallon paint can matches the COLECO corner radius sweetly. This aint rocket science folks. If you have not tried it before. Just jump in and be willing to ruin a test peice so to get the feel of it.

Bend it!
Jim Rzonca
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ThrashersFan
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim -

Your game looks really good - what's the story on your end pieces? Are those original or did you fab them yourself? The color and texture looks different than what i'm use to seeing.

Thanks,
Jeff
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jeff. The orange end consoles are original. I like to paint the top of the boards dasher on my wide body 5385 games in oil base red so i simply painted the end consoles with the red stripe to match. Mask them off, scuff the area some, clean with rubbing alcahol, spray 2 thin coats of bulldog adhesion promoter then prime and paint. It holds up good on the plastic like that. A automotive guy told me to do it this way when dealing with waxy molded plastics. Similar method when dealing with bondo he tells me. Thats NUGS logo at center ice. Rich Thill decaled the surface for me.

Its a keeper!
Jim Rzonca
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out the rail screwed / mounted to the dasher. The glass sits in the rail courtesy of MENARDS. Its glazed or fastened by using thin vynil strips courtesy of SIGNS NOW forced on both sides of the glass. The glass can be taken apart and put back together with no damage or mess useing the vynil.

Snug Fit
Jim Rzonca
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butler34
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Jim,

What is that rail your glass sits in?
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Trent
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Trent. Go to Home Depot or a hardware store. Go to the storm door / window department. You will find the rail there.

Jim Rzonca
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butler34
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

excellent, thank you.
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butler34
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, so I got a pot boiling right now, I have some 1/8" acrylic and I am trying to bend it around the super tight corner on my Munro...it isn't easy, any pointers?
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Jim Rzonca
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will need to make a mold Trent. Hotter the water temp the better. Get a double burner size pot going. Bent it around your mold.

In Hot Water
Jim Rzonca
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